Bearded Dragon
Housing: An enclosure for a bearded dragon should be at least 40 gallons to accomdate their adult size. If kept as a pair, aim for at least 55 gallons. For a decorative substrate, calcium sand is the best and most natural looking choice. Provide a large branch under a heat lamp for basking. You'll notice they will spend a great deal of their time there, especially after eating. An appropriate sized hide box will be needed for each individual.
For water, a small water dish will suffice. They may also drink droplets of water if you mist the inside of the enclosure.
Environment: A bearded dragon's captive environment should mirror its natural one the rocky, semi-desert regions of Australia. The proper temperature for bearded dragons is 75 to 85 degrees, with a UVB light basking area of around 90 degrees.
Feeding: Adults can be fed insects every other day, with daily fruits and vegetables. For young dragons, feed appropriately sized crickets. For adults, along with larger crickets, you can add mealworms and superworms as a treat. Insects should be dusted with calcium/Vitamin D powder. Fruits and veggies offered may include: greens, romaine lettuce, carrot or radish tops, pesticide-free flowers like dandelions and clover, carrots, bell peppers, cooked potatoes, raspberries, bananas, apples, grapes, and peaches.
I am sorry but your care information is not good at all. Calci sand is horrible and causes severe life threatning impactions. If you want to use sand at all, the only thing recommended is washed and sifted playsand you get at Lowe's for about $3 for 50lbs. Personally I prefer carpet, it is easy to clean and wash. Do not leave water bowls in with beardies, they can easily drown in them. Bathing a few times a week along with misting is enough hydration. Beardies also require UVB not just a heat lamp. I use 100 watt EB Mercury vapor lamps on mine and have had wonderful results in health and size, those can be bought at
www.reptileuv.com for about $40 each. The best thing about them is that they put out good uvb until they burn out. I have one that is over 2 years and still putting out acceptable amounts of uvb.
Basking area temp should be no less the 100 degrees. Mine are all set at 110-120 so that they aren't spending all day under the basking light just to stay warm. The cool end of the tank should be right around 80 degrees. Lights should be on a 12/12 daily cycle and increased to 14/10 during the summer months.
The diet you recommend is aweful! Never EVER feed meal worms. their skin is hard and can cause impaction, not to mention they have very little nutritional value. I usually stick with Superworms and Crickets for the most part with occassional horned worms for the adults and pheonix worms for the babies. Feed your dragons all they can eat in a 10-15 min. period. Babies under three months should be feed twice daily, dragons over 3 months once daily and adults a couple times a week. As far as greens and vegetables go, Young dragons I usually feed nothing but leafy greens (collards, mustard, turnip greens, endive..etc.). Do not feed your dragon or any lizard anything with the word lettuce in it, it has very little nutritional value and is mostly water. Vegetables should be grated squashes, never feed carrots, parsley, beet tops, radish tops or kale as they are high in oxalates and bind the calcium from entering into the blood stream. Never feed young dragons fruits with seeds, it can cause impaction! Absolutely no potatoes! Bananas I don't feed at all, but they can be fed on a rare occassion, they are high in potasium.