shadi11

[DHessJr2291]

This is just basic information for food your Beardie.

Baby Beardies should get about 50 crickets a day untill they are around 10 inches in length.  The crickets sould be dusted everyother day with calcium

When they reach ten inches they should be given greens such as romain lettuce and turnip greens which should be their staple diet and their main source of hydration.  Crickets should be used less and only about 15 to 20 should be fed daily, mostly as a treat.

If anybody has anyother suggestions for food or coments/concerns or questoins they would be great 

[Admin]

Thanks for information sharing

[Snakes Incorporated]

Bearded Dragon

Housing:  An enclosure for a bearded dragon should be at least 40 gallons to accomdate their adult size.  If kept as a pair, aim for at least 55 gallons.  For a decorative substrate, calcium sand is the best and most natural looking choice.  Provide a large branch under a heat lamp for basking.  You'll notice they will spend a great deal of their time there, especially after eating.  An appropriate sized hide box will be needed for each individual.  For water, a small water dish will suffice.  They may also drink droplets of water if you mist the inside of the enclosure.

Environment: A bearded dragon's captive environment should mirror its natural one  the rocky, semi-desert regions of Australia.  The proper temperature for bearded dragons is 75 to 85 degrees, with a UVB light basking area of around 90 degrees.

Feeding:  Adults can be fed insects every other day, with daily fruits and vegetables.  For young dragons, feed appropriately sized crickets.  For adults, along with larger crickets, you can add mealworms and superworms as a treat.  Insects should be dusted with calcium/Vitamin D powder.  Fruits and veggies offered may include: greens, romaine lettuce, carrot or radish tops, pesticide-free flowers like dandelions and clover, carrots, bell peppers, cooked potatoes, raspberries, bananas, apples, grapes, and peaches.

[LizardLady]

Bearded Dragon

Housing:  An enclosure for a bearded dragon should be at least 40 gallons to accomdate their adult size.  If kept as a pair, aim for at least 55 gallons.  For a decorative substrate, calcium sand is the best and most natural looking choice.  Provide a large branch under a heat lamp for basking.  You'll notice they will spend a great deal of their time there, especially after eating.  An appropriate sized hide box will be needed for each individual.  For water, a small water dish will suffice.  They may also drink droplets of water if you mist the inside of the enclosure.

Environment: A bearded dragon's captive environment should mirror its natural one  the rocky, semi-desert regions of Australia.  The proper temperature for bearded dragons is 75 to 85 degrees, with a UVB light basking area of around 90 degrees.

Feeding:  Adults can be fed insects every other day, with daily fruits and vegetables.  For young dragons, feed appropriately sized crickets.  For adults, along with larger crickets, you can add mealworms and superworms as a treat.  Insects should be dusted with calcium/Vitamin D powder.  Fruits and veggies offered may include: greens, romaine lettuce, carrot or radish tops, pesticide-free flowers like dandelions and clover, carrots, bell peppers, cooked potatoes, raspberries, bananas, apples, grapes, and peaches.

This information is so wrong...first off calci sand causes severe impaction and should never be used.  The only thing recommended is washed and sifted play sand if you plan on using sand, it is available at most hardware stores for about three dollars.

Basking temps should be set at 105-110...Vegies should be leafy greens such as collards, mustard and mustard greens.  Carrots should not be fed as a regular part of the diet due to the high oxalates, they bind the calcium from being absorbed into the blood stream.  I would never give my dragons potatoes!  And that is way too much fruit.  Fruit should be given as a occassional treat.  Bananas are high in potasium and also should only be given on a very rare occassion.

[LizardLady]

This is just basic information for food your Beardie.

Baby Beardies should get about 50 crickets a day untill they are around 10 inches in length.  The crickets sould be dusted everyother day with calcium

When they reach ten inches they should be given greens such as romain lettuce and turnip greens which should be their staple diet and their main source of hydration.  Crickets should be used less and only about 15 to 20 should be fed daily, mostly as a treat.


If anybody has anyother suggestions for food or coments/concerns or questoins they would be great 

Rule of thumb here.  Dragons under a year old should be feed leafy greens in the morning and Crickets or worms in the mid day and late afternoon.  Two protien feedings a day for dragons under three months...all they can eat in a 10-15 minute period.  Once over three months they should be fed the crickets or superworms once daily all they can eat in a 10-15 minute period up until they are one year old.  After a year old, two or three times a week is a good feeding schedule for the protien.  They should have fresh greens daily at any age.

[taransteve]

This information is so wrong...first off calci sand causes severe impaction and should never be used.  The only thing recommended is washed and sifted play sand if you plan on using sand, it is available at most hardware stores for about three dollars.

Basking temps should be set at 105-110...Vegies should be leafy greens such as collards, mustard and mustard greens.  Carrots should not be fed as a regular part of the diet due to the high oxalates, they bind the calcium from being absorbed into the blood stream.  I would never give my dragons potatoes!  And that is way too much fruit.  Fruit should be given as a occassional treat.  Bananas are high in potasium and also should only be given on a very rare occassion.

I agree 100% .....
Also beardies should never be fed mealworms, they have absolutely no nutritional value and are known to cause  impaction in dragons.  My beardies are fed collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens and a variety of different squash, sometimes cactus pad (hard to find) and other leafy greens.  Twice a week they get phoenix worms, butters and silks (not all at the same time)..

Here's a great link...
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
 

[Irwins_mom]

Also Beardies of any age should not be housed together they are very territorial. They dont need a water dish in their enclosure. You should bathe them 2-3 times weekly. Beardies get hydrated this way and by the food they eat.

[tntpet]

This information is so wrong...first off calci sand causes severe impaction and should never be used.  The only thing recommended is washed and sifted play sand if you plan on using sand, it is available at most hardware stores for about three dollars.

Basking temps should be set at 105-110...Vegies should be leafy greens such as collards, mustard and mustard greens.  Carrots should not be fed as a regular part of the diet due to the high oxalates, they bind the calcium from being absorbed into the blood stream.  I would never give my dragons potatoes!  And that is way too much fruit.  Fruit should be given as a occassional treat.  Bananas are high in potasium and also should only be given on a very rare occassion.
[/quote]

Not a very nice way to start into a discussion about a matter of opinion.
The use of any substrate is subject to opinion, there's risks with most of them, and others don't enjoy the look of others.  Also, how safe any substrate is, is dependant not only on the species... (as in, you cannot say that calci sand isn't safe for all beardies) because some will not eat it, also, the owner may choose to feed in a separate enclosure, reducing the chance of ingestion.  I for one, used to use a marble slab for my beardie to feed on, that way he wouldn't get sand in his salad, of get a mouth full if he missed a cricket.

All in all, I feel it is important that we all express our opinions here, just try to remember that an opinion is what it is, not necessarily a fact.

[Snakes Incorporated]

All in all, I feel it is important that we all express our opinions here, just try to remember that an opinion is what it is, not necessarily a fact.

Thank you. I do not personally keep Beardies but have a number of care sheets that do conflict with each. I often use info from other sources or mix and match or have my own opinion but please folks I do not want to include a DISCLAIMER every time I say something. 

[shadi11]

All in all, I feel it is important that we all express our opinions here, just try to remember that an opinion is what it is, not necessarily a fact.

Thank you. I do not personally keep Beardies but have a number of care sheets that do conflict with each. I often use info from other sources or mix and match or have my own opinion but please folks I do not want to include a DISCLAIMER every time I say something. 

I dont think you need to include a disclaimer. you were trying to add additional information which is good. I also mix and match alot of my caresheets because alot of it is writen on that persons opinions.
heres a pretty decent caresheet if anyone needs a reference though
http://www.crossfiredragons.com/caresheet.html